CROATIA IDYLL AMONG THE SKERRIES

Sailing from Dubrovnik to Polace

Since we the 5.th of June arrived into Croatia in our own boat, we had to check in, a procedure that is unnecessary for charter tourists.

We moored in Grus, a suburb to Dubrovnik. 30 minutes later and 1295 Kuna (ca 1100£) worse off, we had all the formalities in order, and was ready for cruising Croatia.

We headed upwards the river and moored in Dubrovnik Marina. With the swimming pool 100 m from our boat, we used the day to enjoy the heat wave in the pool, and during the night we could hardly sleep because the temperature never dropped under 30 °C.

Exactly 20 years ago, we spent our honeymoon in Kupari, south of Dubrovnik. We decided we would go and see what was left of the luxury of “our” 5 stars hotel.

It was a sad view that met us when we turned around the point and got the hotel complex into eyesight.

There were collapsed and damaged buildings all over the place.

In a large gaping wound in the wall, sat a youngster in uniform dangling his feet, and outside we could see military vehicles parked.

This was not a place where we would like to stay, so we continued to Srebreno, a small bay not far away, and anchored.

We took our dingy and visited Mlini, a much nicer and more vigorous small village

Sailing past the old town of Dubrovnik.

The day after we returned to Dubrovnik marina, and took the bus into the old town, which is well worth a visit.

Even though the civil war between 91 – 95 destroyed a large part of the old buildings in the town, most is wonderfully restored Only shell marks and bullet holes in some of the buildings, together with a small discrete room near the old harbor with pictures of all the killed men, reminds visitors of the fighting almost 10 years ago.

Naturally, the civil war is still close by for the Croatian population. Talking to the lady in the shop which was bombed during the war and rebuilt after, the waiter who had to leave his 2 years old twins to go and fight, or the parking guard who had a sister who escaped to Norway, you don’t talk long before they get in touch with the subject.

In Slano north of Dubrovnik, the war moved even closer. In this small village one church and one house remained relatively undamaged after the war actions. After surprisingly short time most had been rebuild, but in between there were still ruins to be seen, houses which was under construction and marks from bullets in the trunks of the trees.

The memories of the war actions were still visible in Slano.

Before we visited Slano we anchored to nights in Celo, a small bay with a few hotels, taverns, a local shop and tourists coming with ferry to spend the day on the island.

The temperature reached new heights, and we enjoyed the days swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing and the nights sweating through the heat.

After Slano we headed towards Luka on Sipan. We had read that this small village was a paradise, but not any more. The houses were falling apart, loosing plastering and charm and the village lay lazy and let the time and days pass by.

Kobas, an old, peaceful fishing village that once housed 60 families, has today just a handful citizens left. Sailing friends had described the place as “not to be missed”.

During the summer two taverns are open, each with quay for guests and possibility for overnight accommodation.

We entered the small bay, and saw two chaps who, in one hand had the anchor cable and the other hand waved furious towards us, to attract our attention.

We headed towards the tavern at the head and moored. Small taverns like this, with free quays are typical for this part of Croatia.

Kobas, with its tavern a stone’s throw from our boat, had its own atmosphere and lovely food and drink.

After securing the moorings, we decided to enjoy a glass cold, local white wine. Walking along the quay towards the tables located nicely in the shadow along the beach, we could watch the nets with seafood hanging fresh, waiting for the dinner guests to arrive.

That night we went to bed after a wonderful, memorable evening.

The day after, we had decided to take the boat to Ston, to look at the fortification and the great wall. The wall is said to be the longest in the world, after the Chinese wall. Nico, the owner of the tavern, recommended us to let the boat stay in Kobas and use the dingy instead. Luckily we followed his advice, because the harbor in Ston was hot and cheerless, and the water was dirty and didn’t invite to a bath. Even the town was a disappointment. The most exiting was actually the snakes, which swam and hunted in the river just outside the town.

On the island Mljet we visited Okuklje, a small, ordinary village and Polace. Polace is a national park you can read about in every Croatian tourist folder.

We walked along quiet paths in the pinewood, sat along the shore looking at the ripple on the saltwater lake and enjoyed the sun shining from a cloudless sky.

Updated 04.09.03 of Cecilie Simon Husebye